05 Jun How To Handle Heat Damage
The two words that cause every naturalista to completely unravel – heat damage. Heat damaged curls quite literally unravel and almost defeat the purpose of being natural. Going back to your roots not only means finding the right products, but also leaning into the new texture and living without the heat styling. Working with a professional stylist for your length checks and silk presses can help preserve your curl pattern and reduce the likelihood of heat damage. If you’re wondering how heat damage occurs, what it looks like, and how to prevent it, then we got you, girl.
How Did I Get Heat Damage?
Heat damage develops from straightening your hair too often with too much heat and without adequate protection. Heat weakens the bonds within your hair to get it to straighten. Water allows your curls to return to their natural state. However, excessive heat can permanently break the bonds – the same thing that happens with perms and other chemical straighteners. Generally, you don’t want to press your natural hair with heat higher than 400 degrees and definitely not at 450 degrees (the highest setting for many products).
Maybe you went to the salon and still got heat damage
Not all stylists are professionally trained to work with natural hair, so be cautious and always do your research when looking for a stylist. Although most anyone can get your hair straight, an untrained stylist may not use the best technique or take the necessary precautions to protect your precious curls. Mid-week touchups – whether they’re just on the edges or your whole head – can also cause heat damage. Avoid touching up your hair too often or in the same spots.
Pro-Tip: Beware of mid-week touchups. We know you want to preserve your ‘do but applying more heat to already straightened hair can lead to heat damage. Only touch up your hair once after a press on a low heat setting when you need to sport a particular look. Otherwise, wrap it at night and protect it from the humidity.
Identifying Heat Damaged Curls
You’ll likely know if you are experiencing heat damage – especially if you’ve gotten too friendly with the flat iron recently. However, some cases are not as severe and can be saved when caught early. A few common changes to your natural hair can indicate damage:
- Split Ends
- Breakage – More than usual caused by dry hair
- Flyaways and frizz
- Curls without bounce – After a gentle tug, your coil should snap back into place. If it is limper than usual, it can be a sign of heat damage.
- High Porosity – Excessive heat can increase your hair’s porosity
What to Do With Heat Damaged Curls
There’s no going back with heat damaged curls, so you’ll probably have to trim them eventually – like transitioning all over again. However, you may be able to help your straighter ends blend in the meantime. You have options when it comes to heat damaged curls:
Wear a protective style and allow your hair to grow out
Whether you love straight hair or your curls, there’s a wig to match. The cornrows underneath protect your hair from further damage and give your hair the time it needs to grow.
Put in rollers at night
Sometimes the ends will look too straight and stop blending with your hair. Wearing rollers, twist outs, and braid outs may help the straight ends blend with the rest of your curls. Make sure you’re using moisturizers and sealants, or your hair may be even frizzier by the end of the day.
Chop, chop
Once your ends straighten, there’s not much you can do to “reverse” it – seriously, don’t believe what you read. The bonds in your hair are broken, so you have to treat the straight ends like permed hair. Trust us, we believe in a good trim, and your hair will thrive from it.
How Do I Prevent Heat Damage?
Strengthen
Deep conditioning treatments add moisture and protein to help strengthen your strands. If you’ve recently used heat and are not experiencing damage, then a conditioning treatment may be just what the stylist ordered.
Protect
You should not be putting heat on your hair without a protectant of some sort. We swear by Agadir Hair Shield 450 Hair Treatment because it is lightweight and won’t fry your hair. Using heavier oils or pressing damp hair is like adding grease to a hot skillet and can cause severe damage.
At Salon Brazyl, we do heat styling right. Clients have come in every two weeks for a silk press and still maintain the bounce and shine of their natural curls. The key to avoiding heat damage is not only using the right technique and products but also learning about the limits of your own hair. Salon owner, Tish Hankerson, aims to educate the women in her chair so that you can walk out ready to care for it correctly between visits. Book an appointment or consultation with us today and experience healthy hair.