21 Sep Protective Styles: Protecting or Neglecting Your Hair?

As summer comes to an end, we are greeted with cooler weather and busy, school-time schedules – neither of which is ideal for maintaining healthy, growing hair. So, for as long as I can remember, women have been putting their hair away for the winter in various protective styles, much like a black bear hibernating, nuzzled deep in its den. Popular protective styles for natural hair include box braids, two strand twists, sew-ins, and more recently, crochet styles. For so long it has been thought that these protective styles allow your hair to flourish and grow more than it would if it were styled free-flowing. However, protective styles might not be worth all the hype especially if not properly installed or maintained. These are a few precautions to be aware of when considering a protective style:

Installation of Protective Styles for Natural Hair

Installation can be one of the most harrowing parts of protective styles for natural hair. How can something that involves shoving a needle through your hair possibly be “protective”? Right off the bat you may be doing more damage to it by ripping through strands of your hair. With styles like braids, and even the foundation of sew-ins and crochets, if the braids are too tight, you risk breaking off the hair it’s anchored to. It is not uncommon for older women, and especially women of color, to experience receding hairlines as a result of the constant pulling of the edges from ponytails or protective styles. The breakage can be more severe when the edges are dry from a lack of moisture. Be wary of how much hair is being installed, as the weight of the hair can also strain the edges, causing breakage and thinning.

Pre- and Post- Style Care

Many issues we find with protective styles for natural hair are actually rooted in the fact that we are not educated on how to properly care for our hair. Before installation, it should be clean and thoroughly conditioned, and the ends should be trimmed. This allows the hair to grow to its full potential and prevents the tangling of split ends. Starting with anything less than this may result in even more breakage, dryness, and tangling. Likewise, after removing the style, the hair should be treated again with a good balance of strengthening and moisture treatment, and a possible trim to encourage growth.

Hair Maintenance

Protective styles are definitely an aid to the “woman on the go.” Maybe she forgoes moisturizing because “hair produces its own natural oils” and does not wash her hair as often as she should. This lack of attention can lead to dirty, matted hair.

***Matted hair can also be a result of prolonged wear. It is a general rule of thumb to leave in one style for about two weeks but definitely no longer than two months. At that two month mark, the stagnancy leads to more matting and dreading.

When properly installed and cared for, protective styles can be a great way to give your hair a much needed rest from the constant combing, brushing, and general manipulation. It is not the only way to allow your hair to grow because ultimately, finding a good routine for a free-flowing style is what will help it grow and thrive. For tips on how to ensure a fresh, clean look read “5 Ways to Make Your Protective Style Last”.